From parcels in both Pitigliano and Montefiascone, this is a blend of Procanico, Malvasia di Candia, Moscato and many other local varieties. It spent two weeks on skins, before being pressed to vats for six month of rest. From a cooler, wetter vintage, this is wonderfully delicate and nuanced, with gentle notes of citrus, smoke and spice. Featherweight on the palate, once opened a bottle will not last long.

Le Coste

Le Coste is a fascinating project started in 2004 by Gian Marco Antonuzi and Clementine Bouveron. The couple are winegrowers in the Lazio region, about halfway between Pisa and Rome, who farm 6.5 hectares of vines near the village of Gradoli, overlooking Lago di Bolsena, and work biodynamically. The soils are volcanic, rich in iron and minerals.

The primary red grape here is Greghetto, which is the local version of Sangiovese. White varieties include Procanico and Malvasia. Half their vines are sourced, half are owned. Winemaking is natural, fermentation occurs spontaneously due to indigenous yeasts, and wines are made with no additions, including sulfur. Production is very small.

These are some of the most natural wines of Italy. Extremely pure and expressive, they are a joy to drink.