A Burgundy crémant in the traditional sense, disgorged by hand. Méthode Traditionnel. Zero dosage. Zero added sulfites. Absolutely delicious.
Domaine de Thalie
Peter Gierszewski didn't inherit a family vineyard, and in Burgundy, where land is notoriously expensive and often passed down through generations, that can make becoming a winemaker a particularly difficult undertaking. But Peter found his way into wine through a different route. After studying oenology, he spent roughly a decade running a small wine shop, developing a deep appreciation for organic and biodynamic wines along the way. He also spent time learning from growers like Julien Guillot and the Bret Brothers, whose work in the Mâconnais helped shape his own ideas about farming and winemaking.
In 2009, Peter decided it was time to make wine himself. He purchased an old farmhouse and 4.5 hectares of vines in Bray, a small village in the hills above Cluny, on the western edge of the Mâconnais. It wasn't an obvious place to start. The vineyards here are relatively isolated, surrounded by woodland, meadows, and pasture rather than the continuous stretches of vines found in Burgundy's more famous villages. But that was part of the appeal. Peter saw an opportunity to work in a landscape with remarkable biodiversity and a wide variety of soils, far removed from the pressures and expectations of Burgundy's more prestigious appellations.
The vineyards around Bray are unusual in several respects. Sitting between roughly 300 and 450 meters above sea level, many face west, exposing them to cooler winds and more rainfall than much of the surrounding Mâconnais. The soils are remarkably varied, ranging from familiar clay-limestone to red granite sands and ancient, multicolored Triassic marls. Peter works with Chardonnay, Aligoté, Pinot Noir, Gamay, and even a little Syrah, allowing him to explore how different varieties respond to these distinct growing conditions.
Peter has farmed organically since the beginning, receiving certification in 2012, and incorporates biodynamic practices throughout the vineyards. He's particularly interested in plant-based treatments, herbal preparations, and the relationship between soil health and the surrounding environment. One of his more unusual experiments involves using whey from local goat farmers to help manage powdery mildew, finding a practical use for something that would otherwise go to waste. He also practices massal selection, propagating material from his older vines to preserve their genetic diversity for future generations.
In the cellar, Peter works with native yeasts and avoids unnecessary manipulation. Fermentations happen naturally, with maceration techniques adapted to each grape variety and vintage. Aging takes place in a combination of tanks, old barrels, and occasionally amphorae, depending on the wine. His aim isn't to impose a particular style, but to preserve the differences between the vineyards and the character of the fruit he harvests.
There's something refreshing about Peter's approach to Burgundy. He isn't chasing the prestige of famous vineyard names or trying to reproduce the wines of the Côte d'Or. He's spent more than fifteen years getting to know a relatively overlooked corner of the region, building his vineyards from the ground up and following his curiosity wherever it takes him. His wines have the freshness and structure you'd hope for from Burgundy, but they're also generous, expressive, and wonderfully approachable.
