100% Merlot coming from 30 year old vines in Rivesaltes planted by Laurent’s father on quite heavy clay soils. The meticulous pruning in this vineyard, and then strict disbudding in the spring has, Laurent thinks, contributed to much more even maturity this year.

Whole bunches were macerated for 3-4 days and 80% was aged in concrete tanks and 20% in wood. The wine is particularly juicy with aromas of ripe black cherries. “It’s our Gamay” according to Laurent.

Mataburro

Mataburro is the small domaine of rising stars, Laurent Roger and Mélissa Ingrand, based in the Roussillon, the Catalan corner of France perched between the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees. Laurent’s path into natural wine took him from working at the venerable Paris wine bar Le Verre Volé to the Roussillon, where he apprenticed with Alain Castex of Le Casot des Mailloles, learning firsthand the central role of soil in shaping a vineyard’s expression. He further honed his style of winemaking while working with Tom Lubbe of Matassa and Axel Prüfer of Le Temps des Cerises.

In 2017, Laurent and Mélissa established Mataburro and took over his father’s remaining three hectares of vines, returning them to organic farming. Today, the domaine spans nearly five hectares across parcels near Rivesaltes and Espira-de-l’Agly. To have maximum soil life, Laurent does not plough, using green manure planting instead. In the cellar, they do short macerations of whole bunches with no foot stomping to limit the extraction. All macerations take place in fiberglass and the wines are typically aged in stainless steel. The wines are never filtered and have no added sulfites. Biodynamic practices, cover crops, and careful attention to each vineyard block allow them to make wines that are fresh, energetic, and naturally low in alcohol — perfect for the hot Mediterranean climate and refreshing anywhere in the world.