100% Pinot Noir. Charles Dufour’s take on ratafia is unlike any other—lighter, fresher, and lower in alcohol than the typical versions found in Champagne. Made entirely from the final 20% of the press (‘taille’) from a Françoise Martinot vineyard, this release is a blend of 50% 2020 taille (fermented with a 2:1 must-to-marc ratio and aged outdoors for a year) and 50% from Dufour’s perpetual vin mistelle réserve (2015-2019). No added SO2, unfined, unfiltered. With only 1,000 bottles produced, this is a rare expression—savory, delicate, and only gently sweet, its acidity and structure clearly echoing its Blanc de Noirs Champagne lineage.

Charles Dufour

Charles Dufour has been something of a breakout success in the world of natural wine. He represents a new generation of small vignerons. On top of his own vineyards, which are bottled under the Bulles de Comptoir label, since 2010 he has been making wines from some of his family's vineyards situated in Celles-sur-Ource under his mother's name, Françoise Martinot.

Charles employs a biodynamic approach, quite the challenge in this region's marginal and unpredictable climate. In the cellar produces his vin clair using native yeasts, raising the wine in barrels and avoiding the use of sulfites altogether. He opts for extensive aging on the lees to yield complex, engaging champagnes with a beautiful vinous character.