Despite very difficult vineyard management, every year a few hundred bottles of Fabrizio’s Pinot Nero see the light of day – around 600 to be more exact. Half an acre planted to limestone soil and surrounded by woods, he didn’t didn’t choose the easiest vine to grow…but his quest for maximum finesse coupled with ultimate expression of the land is certainly met in this bottle. Grapes come from a small vineyard at 700 meters above sea level in the metalliferous hills of Massa Marittima, the cooling influence of the altitude maintaining a chillier microclimate, perfect for slow-ripening Pinot Noir. Vinification is via native ferments in limestone barrels, and aging is in demijohns specially designed by Fabrizio to preserve the aromatic soul of the wine, which is supremely elegant and fine.

Brickish in color, a pale to medium garnet, the supremely enticing nose unravels singed blood orange, powdery florals, cranberry, raspberry jam, and sichuan peppercorn. A mouthful of violet candies and bright red and black berries segues into more herbaceous and spiced elements –– fennel fronds, smoky embers, red beetroot, and sun-dried terracotta –  before settling into itself via its elegant, refined, subtle tannins and a long finish. High acid throughout and a beautiful, mineral-tinged savory streak (vs. anything mushroomy) marks this as an exceptional and age-worthy Pinot Noir, albeit only one that could be from the Maremma. As all of Fabrizio’s creations are, this is a pure and luminous encapsulation of terroir, passion, and art, and what old world wine is all about.

Massa Vecchia

The now legendary Tuscan natural wine estate Massa Vecchia was founded in 1985, long before natural wines were a trend of any sort and actually before the term (such that it is) was even coined. But definitions and categories have never applied to Fabrizio Niccolaini and his wife Patrizia, who see their love for the land and terroir as the foundations of a truly holistic entity, where man, nature, and the vine exist in imperfect (as perfection is for non-living things) and dynamic harmony. Massa Vecchia is located in Tuscany’s Maremma area, just at the feet of the Metallifere hills, and now comprises about 6 hectares of vines, some extremely old and venerable. The approach in the vineyards is as loving as it is uncompromising, going well beyond organic or biodynamic farming. In addition to Massa Vecchia, Fabrizio and Patrizia also manage Podere Aia Vecchia, a small farm in the mountains above Massa Marittima, 700 meters above sea level. Here they raise a few Jersey cows and some Cinta Senese pigs, creating that ideal circular and self-sufficient agricultural model, with an associated small production of cheese. In this tucked-away, wooded enclave, there is a 0.6-hectare vineyard that Fabrizio planted with Pinot Noir on barren, limestone soils, setting for himself yet another challenge of viticultural coexistence.