1/3 each Sauvignon/Chardonnay/Fié Gris. Roughly translated as "little cold one", Frileuse is an apt name for this frost-prone, 3.8-hectare site at the top of the Tue-Boeuf estate. It is home to three varieties, including Fié Gris, the historical name for Sauvignon Rose, a Sauvignon variant with dusty-rose-colored skins and a softer flavor profile vs. the better-known Sauvignon (Blanc). Vine age ranges from 15 to 55 years with most in the 20-35-year zone. The soils are predominantly sticky clay and flint. The Puzelats farm the vineyard organically and harvest by hand. The bunches are partly left in whole clusters and partly destemmed with 2-3 days of maceration to kick off the spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and without sulfur in large oak tanks. The wine ages 8-9 months in used demi-muids and Burgundy barrels, with occasional lees stirring and without racking.

Clos du Tue-Boeuf

Since the Middle Ages, there have been records about the lieu-dit “le Tue-Boeuf” and its excellent wines which were enjoyed by the local nobility and the kings of France. The family name Puzelat is mentioned in 15th-century documents.

History, though, is not the story here. It’s about two brothers, Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat, who tend their 10-hectare family estate in Les Montils (part of the Cheverny AOC) and rent 6 hectares in a village nearby to produce AOC Touraine. The region, near the hunting grounds of Sologne, has always used a wide variety of grapes. Since the 60’s, the Puzelats' father had been making his own selections of vines to replant, leaving his sons with vines of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Menu Pineau (or Arbois), Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Côt (or Malbec).

Jean-Marie was joined on the estate by his younger brother Thierry in the early 90’s and they began converting their vines to organic viticulture. When the Cheverny AOC was created with the 1993 vintage, some varietals became outlawed from the blends, and the brothers started a yearly struggle to get their wines accepted under the new appellation. Now, when a wine is rejected, they sell it under a Vin de Pays or Vin de France label; their customers know and trust their work and methods, so quality is never put into question.

A visit to their cellar feels like a tour de France of varietals. Some cuvées are so small that there is never enough to go around. Of the wines which have made it to these shores, there are several from Touraine: Le Buisson Pouilleux, a Sauvignon Blanc from old vines - bright, very mineral, with notes of verbena and honeysuckle; Le Brin de Chèvre, from Menu Pineau grapes - floral, light and citrussy; La Guerrerie, a sturdy red made with Gamay and Côt (Malbec) - spicy, peppery and requiring some bottle age and a red Cheverny La Caillère, Pinot Noir with Gamay - juicy, fruity and round.

After an illustrious, 40+ year career, Jean-Marie retired following the 2018 vintage. Thierry is now fully at the helm of the estate and was recently joined by his daughter Zöe.

- Louis/Dressner Selections