Mostly Procanico with the balance being made up of Malvasia, Roscetto, Pedino, Vermentino, Romanesco and Ansonica from vineyards young and old. From arguably their best ever vintage, here the grapes were destemmed and macerated for a fortnight before being pressed off to old casks for a year of élevage. A gorgeous, pale shade of gold in the glass, this is remarkably fine boned, with neat tannins framing gentle notes of citrus zest and minerals. A wine of impeccable balance, every detail appears to be in place.

Le Coste

Le Coste is a fascinating project started in 2004 by Gian Marco Antonuzi and Clementine Bouveron. The couple are winegrowers in the Lazio region, about halfway between Pisa and Rome, who farm 6.5 hectares of vines near the village of Gradoli, overlooking Lago di Bolsena, and work biodynamically. The soils are volcanic, rich in iron and minerals.

The primary red grape here is Greghetto, which is the local version of Sangiovese. White varieties include Procanico and Malvasia. Half their vines are sourced, half are owned. Winemaking is natural, fermentation occurs spontaneously due to indigenous yeasts, and wines are made with no additions, including sulfur. Production is very small.

These are some of the most natural wines of Italy. Extremely pure and expressive, they are a joy to drink.